The foundational myth of the taco al pastor.
Several media outlets on the internet became an echoing chamber intent on bringing forth the sole creator of tacos al pastor, their messiah and inventor; two stories were shouted repeatedly by various authors.
By Jajo Crespo / Photos: Los Tarascos, El Tizoncito
Where did tacos al pastor originate?
Many seek a singular figure, touched by the gods, who invented tacos al pastor one Tuesday morning. However, cultural processes are rarely as identifiable as treaties; we cannot search for a document verifying who first penned the recipe. History in gastronomy, like in literature, tends to be a tale of struggles and influences.
In literary studies, foundational myths justify the existence of empires or governments through narratives like the hero's journey or Campbell's monomyth. It's easier to comprehend that a priest shouted in Dolores, Hidalgo, birthing Mexico, than to grasp the historical and social oscillations leading to independence and beyond.
A similar process unfolds in the quest to uncover the origin of tacos al pastor. Two foundational myths popularized by media depict two taco messiahs: Iskender Efendi and his grandfather, and Concepción Cervantes from "El Tizoncito" taqueria.
The first myth
The first myth, undoubtedly the most widespread, tells of two Lebanese immigrants who arrived in Mexico fleeing conflicts that dissolved the Ottoman Empire (1908-1924). According to this tale, these migrants—Iskender Efendi and his grandfather (no name specified)—settled in Puebla and established a shawarma business. Over time, they adapted the recipe, substituting lamb for pork and pita bread for corn tortillas, thus creating tacos al pastor.
The second myth
Originates from "El Tizoncito" in Condesa, claiming to be the "creators of the Taco al Pastor [sic]." According to this account, Concepción Cervantes, a widow with four children, opened a shawarma business in 1966, which eventually became a taqueria. With the help of her friend Josúe, who knew shawarma well, they innovated to fit their conditions: using a vertical spit, cooking with charcoal to avoid electrical installation, and adapting the dish with pork instead of lamb. Inspired by her children's wooden spinning tops, she arranged the meat similarly on the spit.
What we do know
Mexico has historically welcomed exiles, including a significant Middle Eastern migration in the early 20th century to Puebla and Veracruz. Despite this, pinpointing a clear origin for Iskender and his grandfather is challenging, as some research suggests tacos al pastor became popular in central Mexico in the 1960s. The true story likely combines elements of both myths without specific characters.
The "Tacopedia" by Alejandro Escalante agrees that the birth of tacos al pastor cannot be pinpointed precisely; it was a cultural encounter across Mexico, gradually solidifying the recipe. Tacos al pastor undoubtedly have their roots in Lebanese shawarma, Greek gyros, and Turkish döner kebab, but their seasoning is distinctly Mexican. Thus, the history of tacos al pastor symbolizes the embrace of two cultures, even if the initiator of that embrace remains unclear.
