Literature and Food / La Ópera in Ibargüengoitia’s "Los relámpagos de agosto"
¡La Ópera! Those walls do speak, we know—they're gossipy, disloyal, and sometimes even downright deceitful.
Photos by La Ópera's website
The walls of La Ópera tell juicy, flirtatious, sometimes false and exaggerated stories—more unbelievable than any 90s Mexican soap opera. No one recalls the days when stepping inside felt like entering a stage of power and mystery. The crystal chandeliers, immaculate waiters in their tailcoats, and the constant murmur of conversations whispered as if everyone had a secret to hide. And indeed, they did.
In Ibargüengoitia's "Los relámpagos de agosto," La Ópera was the headquarters of the military coup plotters, drenched in betrayal and greed. There, amid stained plates and glasses of cognac, the country's fate was decided. Imagine that! A coup planned over mole, coffee, and alcohol.
But don’t think it was just the military clientele. Politicians, businessmen, and all kinds of influential and troublesome figures frequented La Ópera. It was the perfect place to make deals, do favors, and perhaps, engage in a bit of conspiracy.
The pages whisper of a particular night when a waiter served a group of generals who argued, sweating with greasy faces and wrinkled suits, about the upcoming uprising. With his notebook and pencil, he pretended to take notes while inwardly laughing at the ridiculous characters before him. Of course, he couldn’t say a word, lest he be accused of treason.
La Ópera, La Ópera—so many stories, so many intrigues, so many laughs! Today, the restaurant stands, but it’s not the same. Times have changed, and so has the clientele. Instead of generals and politicians, you now see tourists and couples in love.
It remains that magical place where politics and conspiracy mingled with the French-inspired cuisine favored by General Díaz and the aroma of café de olla. A place where history was written between dishes and glasses, and where any ordinary person might have witnessed it all, even if they went to the grave never knowing.
Beyond its past, in the postmodern present, you can still enjoy its tartar steak, pork tacos that invade the palate, and Galician-style octopus.
- Address: Av. 5 de Mayo, Colonia Centro, Cuauhtémoc
- Phone: (55) 55128959
- Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 am to 12:00 am; Sundays, 1:00 pm to 6:00 pm
- Ideal for: Lunch, dinner
- Cuisine: Mexican, Spanish
- Payment: Cash and cards
- Parking: No, Valet Parking available
- Reservations: Yes
- Nearby Public Transport: Metro Allende
- Pet Friendly: No
- Kids Friendly: No
- Vegan Options: No
- Beer Price: $60
