Guide to Cantinas in Mexico City / El Covadonga, a cantina with Asturian heritage that survives the changes in the Roma neighborhood.
El Covadonga is the old and legendary Spanish cantina in the Roma neighborhood,
By Anna Lagos / Photos courtesy by La Covadonga
Here you can find everything from Valencian paella, tortas de jamón serrano, expert domino games, and plenty of conversation about politics, cinema, and the state of art in Mexico City and its surroundings.
According to the age-old cantina tradition, there is no music here because people come to talk and play. It's a bohemian cantina that fits the cliché of a place frequented by intellectuals and artists. It used to be the meeting point for older folks who enjoyed domino games and sips of rum in silence. However, due to its location, a new wave of intellectuals and party lovers have adopted it as their new epicenter for any occasion.
Around 1980, this place housed the Asturian Center of Mexico, which is now in Polanco. The original name of this space was Salón Hispanomexicano and now it's called El Escudo, but we all affectionately call it 'El Covadonga'. Or simply 'El Cova', a generous cantina to sit down for dinner, have a pre-party drink, or even rent it out for events with DJs, magazines, and brand or book presentations.
El Covadonga is a place of traditions. When you arrive, the waiter will greet you with a plate of pickled chilies, carrots, cauliflower, and potatoes to start salivating and start thinking about your drink. Some dishes may be overly salty, and the tartare seems to have been refrigerated for many hours without covering, but the garlic soup surpasses everything and in the nostalgia of a 70-year-old institution, we don't seek perfection, except in the cubas, and that's fulfilled.
This establishment, dating back to 1940, stands out for its exceptional service, with waiters who have been working there for between 18 and 25 years, the type of waiters who are willing to chat with customers. Additionally, it has three different spaces dedicated to the cantina/bar, the restaurant, and a party hall. If you're looking for a place with foreigners, locals of all ages, and a relaxed atmosphere with character, put El Covadonga on your agenda.
- Address: Puebla 121, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Mexico City, CDMX
- Phone: 55 5533 2701
- Hours: Monday to Sunday from 1:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.
- Ideal for: a game of dominoes or a chat.
- Type of cuisine: Spanish
- Payment: Cash and bank cards
- Accessibility: No
- Parking: No
- Beer price: $50
- Reservations: Not necessary, but can be made by phone
- Nearby public transport: Metro or Metrobús Insurgentes
- Pet friendly: No
- Suitable for children: No
