Classics of Mexico city / Fonda Margarita, mexican homemade breakfasts for early risers, office workers, and night owls.

By Anna Lagos / Photos Fonda Margarita Facebook

That warmly welcome the early birds and night owls in the quiet neighborhood of Colonia Del Valle, home to a Mexico City breakfast classic: Fonda Margarita.

Around 5:30 in the morning, the stacks of tortillas are ready alongside stews and the bubbling green sauce that will flavor the chicharrón, longaniza sausage, and pork. To accompany, don't miss the ultra-rich refried black beans sprinkled with scrambled egg bits.

Founded by Doña Margarita Lugo Castillo over six decades ago, this diner began its story under the shade of a tree in Tlacoquemécatl park, next to the Señor del Buen Despacho parish, where she offered her stews on feast days. Soon, someone offered her a piece of land right in front of that tree, where she established the stable business we now know, and was able to bring her husband back who, at that time, during World War II, was detained in the United States under the Bracero Program.

The bracero was someone who worked with their arms, especially but not exclusively, in agricultural tasks. At the diner, they also work with their arms, and fortunately for many, the stoves have not been extinguished, and almost everything is from another time, that of Grandma Margarita, who had the surname Lugo thanks to a Spanish relative who was left in the care of Franciscans in Mexico.

What did Anthony Bourdain say about Mexico?

An old photo in Fonda Margarita shows that first Margarita smiling, with jet-black hair, dangling earrings, a blue apron with white ruffles protecting her black and white dress, cooking with a wooden spoon in hand, while the large clay pot rests on the coals of a brazier. Nothing more. No photos from the era, no selfies with celebrities. If anything, the permission from the delegation and the menu with the day's dishes. But it's necessary to mention that this place became a worldwide legend the day Anthony Bourdain included it in the CDMX episode of his show “No Reservations,” where the also late Mexican chef, Carlos Llaguno, was his host.

Its stainless steel tables have been welcoming guests since 1948, who inquire about the day's specials or seek comfort in its fixed menu. The beef patties in tomato broth, pork trotters, or beef steak in pasilla chili sauce are dishes that demand to be accompanied by the roasted red salsa for a final touch, and of course by a glass of orange juice or pot coffee sweetened with piloncillo, as the manual dictates.

After Margarita's passing in November 1993, Margarita Castillo, the founder's granddaughter, keeps her grandmother's seasoning and secrets, as well as the ritual of arriving at two in the morning to light the coals and use the lard to refry the beans with egg that will accompany the morning's seasoned stews with Doña Margarita's love, in front of the Señor del Buen Despacho.

Food Police Advice

Don't expect luxury or decoration, and don't forget to arrive hungry and get up early—to avoid long lines.

• Address: Adolfo Prieto 1364 B, Colonia Tlacoquemécatl Del Valle, Benito Juárez Borough, Mexico City.
• Phone: 55 5559 6358
• Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 6:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.
• Ideal for: Those seeking authentic culinary experiences and wishing to dive into the richness of traditional Mexican cuisine.
• Type of food: Traditional Mexican. Fonda Margarita specializes in offering stews and dishes that represent the essence of Mexican cuisine. From rich and complex moles to stew tacos, charro beans, and chilaquiles, each recipe reflects the diversity and richness of Mexico.
• Payment: cash and cards
• Accessibility: wheelchair accessible
• Parking: no.
• Reservations: Does not accept reservations.
• Nearby public transport: Near the Metro Hospital 20 de Noviembre
• Pet friendly: no
• Suitable for children: yes