The Food Police Guide to Cantinas in Mexico City / La Nueva Don León, a bohemian cantina with a snack offering, with a cabaret past and nearly a hundred years of existence.
Cantina La Nueva Don León, founded in 1928 as "El Nuevo León," is about to celebrate its centenary.
By Anna Lagos / Photos courtesy by La Nueva Don León
Once upon a time, this establishment housed the famous Cabaret Patria, a kind of burlesque where, oddly enough, it was customary to have an hour of reading each day.
The chef and manager of the establishment, Fedor Luna Hernández, recounts that there was an old man named Don Severo, who would go out with his chair and cane to read various classics such as The Iliad or The Odyssey, by the Greek poet Homer. As expected, as the minutes passed, people started throwing tomatoes at him, and everyone would shout, "pelos, pelos, pelos," so the girls would return to the stage. Fedor Luna Hernández tells this anecdote to journalist Renato Galicia, and maintains that the phrase "está de pelos" (it's awesome) was coined here. Let the public discover why.
Despite challenges such as its closure during the pandemic, the spirit of Cantina La Nueva Don León, an authentic cultural heritage of Mexico City's Historic Center, prevailed thanks to its rescue by a restaurant group, owners of Fonda Argentina, just a few months later. Although there have been some changes in the name, the heart of the establishment remains the same, as the staff has been working together for 30 years.
The cantina, visited by Carlos Monsiváis or Renato Leduc, maintains its bohemian spirit and the tradition of offering a generous snack, along with exceptional service and a clean environment. Items like sandwiches, particularly those with pork leg, prepared by Venancio Delgado Rodríguez, who learned to make them 26 years ago from a cook who wanted to become a waiter, are a source of pride from the menu. But you can also find other classics like meatballs, Aztec soup, or sausage with potatoes in green sauce.
Fedor Luna Hernández was also a chef at La Boutique del Libro, one of the most prominent bookstores in Buenos Aires, Argentina, a place known for blending gourmet dinners with cultural activities, creating a unique atmosphere. Currently, Fedor is involved in cultural initiatives parallel to the International Book Fair of the Zócalo, such as book presentations and exhibitions. Because of its proximity to the Supreme Court of Justice of the Nation, which has five courtrooms, this cantina is called "the sixth courtroom." The purpose of these activities is to enrich the experience of customers, whether they are bureaucrats or street vendors in the area.
- Address: José María Pino Suárez #18, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, Mexico, 06060
- Phone: +525555227572
- Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 10:00 pm. Sundays close at 7:00 pm.
- Ideal for: Having an authentic cantina experience, but without hairs or spittoons or channels for urination.
- Type of cuisine: Mexican and Spanish.
- Payment: Cash and cards.
- Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible
- Parking: No.
- Beer price: From $54
- Reservations: No
- Nearby public transport: Metro Zócalo
- Pet friendly: No
- Suitable for children: No
