The Food Police Guide to Cantinas in Mexico City / La Reforma, a traditional cantina with full course daily menus and a long legacy.
“What brings you to this part of town?”, “Where are you actually going?”, “I wouldn't walk around this neighborhood alone,” comments the cab driver as we roamed the streets of Peralvillo searching for a destination agreed upon earlier that morning with my friend Cristina: La Reforma cantina.
By Anna Lagos / Photos: Courtesy of La Reforma
Going through the golden aluminum-framed door, terrazzo flooring and tiles in many shades of brown we’re reminded of a bygone era. The two-tier epoxy resin bar, a mid-century keepsake, is the telltale sign that this place has seen it all.
I believe the Cuba Libre to be every bartender's drink par excellence, so I order my own twist on the classic tall drink: Bacardi white, a healthy squeeze of lime, topped up with soda and just a whisper of cola. At the bar, I'm greeted by Adolfo Cordero, industry veteran and owner of this establishment – who also happens to be Roberto Cordero’s brother: our host at the illustrious El Paraíso cantina in Santa María la Ribera– Both were the sons of a man who had worked in the sex-service industry since the turn of the century. At one time, Cordero sr. managed up to 35 brothels, but a clash with Ernesto Uruchurtu – Mexico City’s “Iron Regent”, who would go down in history for orchestrating the massive closure of pulquerias, cabarets and all kinds of pleasurable venues and businesses in Mexico’s capital formerly known as Distrito Federal– almost cost him everything.
The Corderos acquired this cantina in 1988; and have preserved it, very much as a meeting point for the community where men, dressed as if from another time, catch up with lifelong friends over a beer and the day’s “botana” selection. College-graduates, their professor, the retiree that visits most weekdays. Here, everyone knows each other and, yet, new faces like me are welcome.
There’s poetry to be found in a career-bartender’s trade, even in the way Mr. Adolfo squeezes limes. He proudly presents his establishment’s menu for the day, and though it changes daily: there is always soup, a stew, some kind of side dish and even “recalentado” a common occurrence, typically around the holidays, for mexican families to reheat and enjoy left-overs from last night’s dinner all over again... On Tuesdays, Mr. Cordero sets up anafres - a kind of portable charcoal grill - and gets to grilling curbside; On Fridays, a righteous seafood paella (cooked in El Paraíso´s own kitchen) compliments any and all drink orders.
Like his brother in El Paraíso, Mr. Adolfo has no one to pass the reins of his business to and has been offering La Reforma for transfer for some time.
I leave as the sun begins to set, heeding the cabby’s warning, but feeling cherished by La Reforma´s patrons. One of them even walked me to my cab. Is this a rough neighborhood? “Not this side,” reassures Mr. Cordero, reminding me that he, never in his time running the cantina, has ran into any trouble.
TL;DR
- Food Police pro tip: Sit at the bar and treat yourself to a chat with Don Adolfo
- Location: C. Melesio Morales 2, Peralvillo, Cuauhtémoc, 06220, Mexico City, Mexico.
- Contact info: 55 5583 8665
- Service hours: 1:00pm to 10:00pm - Mon to Sun.
- Ideal for: lunch and dinner
- Cuisine: Traditional full-course cantina dishes and mexican versions of international options
- Payment: cash and card
- Accessibility: wheelchair access at sidewalk tables
- Parking: No valet parking, free street parking. Mobility apps or taxi service recommended
- Reservations: not necessary
- Nearby public transport: Misterios metro station, Mercado Beethoven metrobus station
- Pet friendly: outside area
- Suitable for children: no
- Vegan options: occasionally. Ask about the day’s menu
- Beer price: 65 pesos (complimentary course included)
- Average check: 260 pesos
