Michelin-Starred Restaurants in Mexico / Olivea in Ensenada, from farm to table with tasting menus that evolve at a dazzling pace
With two Michelin Stars (one of them Green, for its commitment to sustainability), this hotel and restaurant offers two exquisite tasting menus and a wholehearted devotion to ecological practices.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
The way Michelin Stars are awarded goes like this: a group of “anonymous inspectors” visit your restaurant several times (I assume they’re different people each time—otherwise you’d start to suspect, right?). The evaluation focuses solely on the food: “the quality of the ingredients, mastery of technique, harmony of flavors, the chef’s personality” (so, if the chef is a bit unpleasant, forget it), and consistency.
Today, we travel to the city of Ensenada—population 300,000, about 110 kilometers from the U.S. border. (It brings to mind La Bufadora, that remarkable spot where seawater hits the rocks and bursts upward like a 40-meter geyser.) There, Adri Díaz and Angie Joy opened a charming 14-room boutique hotel. As part of the project, they launched the restaurant Olivea, whose motto is simple: “from farm to table.”
Sustainability: The Soul of Olivea
And indeed, they live up to the promise. Olivea has its own garden (which they’ll even take you to visit), where most of the vegetables they cook come from. There, you can even plant your own kumquat tree—a Chinese citrus variety.
The founders explain: “Sustainability is key (…) our garden follows ecological cultivation, and all kitchen waste is turned into compost.” What’s absolutely astonishing is that Olivea earned a Michelin Star after just a little over two years of operation. And not only that—it also received the Green Star for its sustainable focus.
A Kitchen That Reinvents Itself with the Garden
Under the direction of chef Eduardo Zaragoza, Olivea’s tasting menus change every three weeks, ensuring each visit feels fresh and surprising. They offer two main experiences: a vegetarian menu and a seafood menu, plus à la carte options.
Highlights include the catch of the day with celery root purée, octopus in white mole, spinach quesadillas, mustard leaves with pomegranate and ricotta, oysters in red mole, duck cannelloni, and desserts like pear with tangerine and lavender or caramelized plums. To fully enjoy Olivea, the best option is to surrender to the dual tasting menus.
So—homegrown produce, solar panels, water reuse systems, composting, ever-changing delicious food, and two Michelin Stars. Honestly, drop everything and head to Ensenada now.
- What we love and you must try: Bluefin tuna with leche de tigre, sea urchin, and ricotta relish.
- What we don’t love as much: I’m a staunch defender of the octopus’s right to exist—so, don’t order it!
- Address: Carretera Federal 3, km 92.5, La Ruta del Vino, Valle de Guadalupe, Ensenada, Baja California.
- Hours: Wednesday–Thursday, 5:00 p.m.–8:00 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, 3:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m.; Sunday, 3:00 p.m.–8:00 p.m. (hours vary by source, but generally open 3:00 p.m.–8:00 p.m.)
- Best for: Dinner (and planting a tree).
- Payment: Cash and cards.
- Public transport: None nearby.
- Accessibility: Yes.
- Reservations: Not required.
- Phone: 646 383 6402
- Pet friendly: Yes.
- Good for kids: Yes.
- Vegan options: Yes.
