Restaurants in Museums, Mexico City / Restaurante de los Monjes: Nirvana in the Desierto de los Leones
In a 17th-century convent, surrounded by ancient trees and eerie legends, lies this restaurant specializing in Mexican cuisine and dishes with “mystical” names.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
A couple of years ago, I went on a “tour” of the Desierto de los Leones in Mexico City with some friends. These tours are organized and have different levels of difficulty (we chose an “easy” excursion given our advanced age). It turned out to be extraordinary and surprising. It’s hard to believe that so close to the city, there exists—against all odds—such a wonderful and vast paradise. It was an amazing experience that I recommend for both young and old.
I didn’t know why it’s called Desierto de los Leones. In the past, “desierto” referred to places where one could undertake spiritual retreats. “De los Leones” refers to the fact that these lands once belonged to the León family (how about that?). The area spans more than 1,500 hectares of oyamel fir, pine, and oak forest, providing oxygen to a city of 25 million inhabitants.
The Convent
In the 17th century, the Discalced Carmelites founded a convent to live in isolation and follow the austere life required by the religious order. While visiting the convent, I learned that there is a network of tunnels beneath it. One of them is called… “The Tunnel of Wails.” It is very narrow and dark… and they say you can hear voices, footsteps behind you, sudden temperature changes… a chilling wind that shakes you… whispers of an indigenous child punished by the monks who died there…
Not eerie at all is the Restaurante de los Monjes, located in the former convent of the Desierto de los Leones. It “offers dishes that pay homage to traditional Mexican cuisine,” with delightfully sacred names like huevos de su santa voluntad (eggs of your holy will), enchiladas del nuevo creyente (enchiladas of the new believer), and cecina de expiación (beef jerky of atonement), perfect for redeeming sins.
The “Mystical” Dishes
For breakfast, and later for lunch, the restaurant offers venison, wild boar, lamb, and beef. You can also order trout (locally raised) or chicken. The venue is available for weddings and special events (I remember attending a wedding many years ago, though I don’t recall whose). What I do clearly remember is that we hosted the cocktail for the premiere of the telenovela Mujer de Madera (with an ecological theme), starring Edith González, Gabriel Soto, and Jaime Camil, which I wrote (2004/2005).
- What we love and you must try: enchiladas of the new believer.
- Address: Carretera al Desierto de los Leones S/N, La Venta, Cuajimalpa, CDMX
- Opening days & hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
- Ideal for: praying (just kidding: breakfast and lunch)
- Payment: cash and cards
- Accessibility: yes
- Reservations: not required
- Pet Friendly: no
- Suitable for children: yes
- Vegan options: yes
