Michelin-Starred Restaurants in Mexico / Expendio de Maíz (unnamed), trust the chef until you’re fully satisfied
It’s a hidden little spot with a barely visible sign and only four tables. There, you place yourself in the skilled hands of the chef to enjoy his incredible improvisations, all made with maize.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
When awarding a Michelin Star, factors like glamour, décor, or service are not considered. The criterion is the food. This means a tiny spot decorated with egg cartons and full of smoke could earn the pinnacle of restaurant awards, while an elegant restaurant with world-class service might not.
This applies especially to the splendid place we’re discussing now. Its name is simple—and thankfully, not pretentious: Expendio de Maíz (some add “unnamed,” though that’s obvious).
Let Yourself Go
Expendio de Maíz is the “omakase” of this incredible venue. Omakase, as you know, is a Japanese concept (originally for sushi) that basically means “trust the chef.” You sit at one of the four long tables and let yourself be guided. It’s “zen” dining: the chef’s creativity flows like a torrent, and you eat whatever he serves until you can’t eat anymore. I think it’s paradise—especially for someone like me, whose favorite foods are sopes, enchiladas, and huaraches.
This unusual place was created by Jesús Salas Tornés, born in Ayutla de los Libres, Guerrero. In his culinary philosophy: “…(He offers) food based on heirloom maize, nixtamalized and ground on-site… no menu.” He works directly with farmers from Guerrero, State of Mexico, and Veracruz, using local, seasonal ingredients like wild mushrooms, mangrove salt, farm eggs, and more.
What Will You Eat?
“The chef asks your preferences and serves rounds of tortillas, sopes, huaraches, gorditas, tlacoyos, etc., until you say, ‘Enough, no more!’” The Michelin Guide notes: “Although the dishes change, you will always enjoy creations as delicious as huitlacoche sopes over refried beans, or a sweet concha with cream and honey, accompanied by traditional Mexican coffee…” Mmm!
Did I mention it received its first Michelin Star this year?
- What We Love and You Should Try: Everything
- What We Like Less: I’m not a fan of the café de olla because it’s sweetened
- Address: Av. Yucatán 84, Roma Norte, CDMX
- Hours: Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday, 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.; Saturday, 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.; closed Monday
- Best For: Dining
- Payment: Cash only
- Nearby Public Transport: Metrobús Insurgentes Sur
- Accessibility: Yes
- Reservations: Sign up on arrival
- Phone: +52 55 2498 9964
- Pet Friendly: Yes
- Kid-Friendly: Yes
- Vegan Options: Yes
