The Food Police Guide to old money restaurants in Mexico city / Alfredo di Roma, emperors of Fettuccine

By Anna Lagos / Photos courtesy of Alfredo di Roma

Alfredo ran a small place in Rome, in the Piazza Augusto Imperatore, in the historic center of Italy's capital. It was a traditional inn run by his mother, Angelina. In this place, Alfredo Di Lelio became a renowned cook for his lush and thick mustache. He served dishes of simple elaboration, but with great visual impact, following the Italian futurists, the avant-garde movement that sought to "dynamite tradition, the past, and the stiffened conception of classic art," and who said that "There is no beauty except in the struggle."

It is said that the person who motivated Alfredo to create this dish was his wife, Ines. After giving birth to their firstborn, Armando, his wife suffered an alarming loss of appetite, remaining bedridden, so Alfredo had to prepare a very succulent recipe to try to help her. He decided to turn to the traditional cookbook and modify one of the typical dishes: fettuccine al burro. He added butter to al dente pasta and finished the dish already at the table, putting more bits of butter, almost triple that of the original recipe, mixing them before his wife's eyes with his own hands. To this, he added a good amount of grated Parmesan. All this accompanied by the live music of a singer. Ines succumbed to her husband's charming dish and encouraged him to include it on the menu. Thus, the legend was born.

Alfredo di Roma has a nickname: Emperor of Fettuccine, because they invented the recipe, also because they have served more than 3 million dishes — in fact, they give you a card certifying the number — and because here the fresh pasta is made, which makes a difference with many other restaurants.

At the helm of the kitchen of Alfredo di Roma, in Polanco, a restaurant that arrived in Mexico City in 1966, is chef Mauro Chiecchio, who recommends La Burrata el Pomodorini e Pesto Leggero, with a creamy and crunchy texture, the mixed fry of squid and shrimp, or the Carpaccio All´Albese. The Falso Risotto ai Gamberi, with its combination of shrimp, asparagus, and rum. If you prefer meat, ask for the Sella D´ Agnello Al Limone. No Italian experience is complete without a selection of pastas and pizzas. We recommend the pear pizzetta with gorgonzola.

The Italian wines of Alfredo di Roma come directly from the largest cellar in Latin America. Located inside the Presidente Intercontinental Hotel, in Polanco. This cellar, with 40,000 bottles in inventory, with a selection of more than 2,300 labels on the wine list, has just been awarded for the fifth consecutive year with the Grand Award, given by Wine Spectator magazine. It also entered the Wine Spectator's 2023 Bucket List, a selection of 12 restaurants around the world that have the best selection of premium wines.

The dish, the place, and Alfredo himself are now a myth, and a must-visit for celebrities, politicians, and the wealthy. Alfredo sold the location and its franchises, but its new owners have kept the recipe and the hundreds of photographs of satisfied and smiling customers that still adorn the walls of this distinguished ristorante.

Food Police Insider Advice

No matter what type of wine you are looking for to accompany your dinner, whether expensive or modest, the team of sommeliers will always come to your table to guide you without any pretension other than to help you make the decision according to your preferences and budget.

• Address: Campos Elíseos 218, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 Mexico City, CDMX
• Phone: 55 5327 7766
• Hours: From 1:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
• Ideal for: Families, couples, and wine lovers who want to enjoy an authentically Italian meal.
• Type of cuisine: Italian cuisine.
• Payment: Credit cards, debit cards, cash
• Accessibility: Wheelchair access
• Parking: Valet parking and complimentary parking.
• Reservations: Recommended, especially for dinners and weekends.
• Nearby public transport: Between Metro Auditorio and Polanco.