What to Eat in Chicago? / Exchequer, Restaurant & Pub, over 100 years of history
Opened right when Prohibition began in the United States, it was a spot frequented by Al Capone. Today, it serves classic American fare.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
Thanks to “Prohibition” (1920–1933), Chicago became a hotspot for alcohol smuggling, or “bootlegging.” Someone came up with the “brilliant” idea of banning the distribution, sale, and consumption of alcohol, which obviously created a booming underground market for this substance, sometimes called “social lubricant.” This clandestine activity led to extreme violence and the rise of gangsters like Al Capone.
Speakeasy
These clandestine bars were called—curiously—“speakeasies” and had peculiar features: hidden entrances (one was even a refrigerator door), passwords for entry, and an “intimate and elegant atmosphere.” One of these speakeasies is the restaurant I’m referring to today: Exchequer (which, in the UK, means “government finance officer”). Who knows why it got that name. What’s certain is that it originated in the 1920s as a clandestine bar. It was frequented by Al Capone himself, and even today there’s still a secret door in the dining room that leads to the basement (used by mobsters for escapes).
Typical American Food
Although it went through several changes, in 1969 it was reborn with the style of an English pub. Its signature dish is Chicago-style deep-dish pizza, which I’ve mentioned before in Food Police. The menu is classic American fare: burgers, BBQ ribs, fries, breaded calamari, and a truly magnificent fried cheese.
It’s also interesting that the restaurant has photos from the Prohibition era. Here’s one of me, pointing to a demonstration in favor of beer (which, by the way, is my favorite drink).
The space is long and understated. The server, of Latin origin, did her best, but apparently was alone and took a bit longer with some things. Still, we ate like cavepeople, I drank beer, and the bill was really small.
- What We Love and You Should Try: Fried cheese
- Address: 226 S Wabash Ave, Chicago, IL 60604
- Hours: Wednesday–Thursday, 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.; Thursday–Saturday, 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.; Sunday, 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
- Best For: Lunch and dinner
- Payment: Cash and cards
- Accessibility: Yes
- Phone: +1 (312) 939 5633
- Reservations: No
- Pet Friendly: No
- Kid-Friendly: Yes
