Cantinas in Mexico City / La Faena, Cantina and bullfighting museum

By: YTME

Photos courtesy of: La Faena's social media

In 1954, Cantina La Faena opened its doors in what was once the Old Palace of the Marqués de Selva. In its early days, it was the most frequented spot by the Association of Novilleros. Evidence of this includes the bullfighting-themed paintings and mannequins of novilleros that seem to come to life. They return from the underworld with their bearing and their proud gaze. It must be disappointing to come back from the underworld only to find unpleasant odors and bullfighting replaced by classics from Los Tucanes de Tijuana. Its ghostly appearance does not go unnoticed; with just a couple of beers, people swear those figures come to life, smile, and even dance to the music from the ancient jukebox.

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The fame of Museo Taurino seems to be a thing of the past. The bullfighting theme now stands as a testament to the passage of time. Diners who come here seem to overlook the oddity of the place. Fame is sometimes earned not through elegance but through the syncretism hidden within. The contrast of dirty tables and plastic chairs with the bearing and memory of the novilleros makes me smile and, discreetly, pull out my hand sanitizer. It’s a phenomenon that’s hard to understand. As you savor some iconic potato quesadillas with overflowing cheese, you can’t help but notice, and even enjoy, the cumbia played by the young folks next to you on the jukebox. Yet something doesn’t quite fit; the echoes of Los Ángeles Azules in the dance and song seem inconsistent with the refined novillero frozen in time on the wall in front of me.

The waiter arrives again, with a new snack, a new promise. The aroma of the Aztec soup dilates my pores, and something catches my attention. Lights remind me that Christmas is approaching, and the altar to the Virgin of Guadalupe is present before my eyes. The plastic table shifts slightly, and for a moment, I think it’s about to collapse. The good atmosphere and history are felt in every sip within La Faena.

Today, 70 years after its opening, it’s a place that promises to withstand the passage of time. As I leave, I encounter the old cash register being visited by a cockroach. A journey through time, a glance into the past. I’ve left the Museo Taurino with its bearing, its challenging looks, its Paso Doble, and its tradition, which, although they remain in their dusty showcases, live on in the eternity of the invincible “La Faena.”

• Address: Venustiano Carranza 49, Centro Histórico
• Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 11:00 am - 1:00 am, Sunday 11:00 am - 10:00 pm
• Ideal For: Lunch, dinner
• Type of Food: Mexican
• Payment: Cash and cards
• Accessibility: Yes
• Parking: No
• Reservations: Not necessary
• Nearby Public Transport: Metro Bellas Artes
• Pet Friendly: No
• Kid-Friendly: No
• Vegan Options: No