Guide to Cantinas in Mexico City / La Potosina, for those who get triggered when they see a regal cantina, say "that's not a cantina," here is the "authentic" and masculine experience complete with dirty and smelly bathrooms.
A unas cuantas calles detrás del Palacio Nacional, en el Centro Histórico de Ciudad de México, enmarcada por vendedores ambulantes y la imponente presencia de una figura de la Santa Muerte cerca de su puerta, se encuentra La Potosina, una cantina que, desde su apertura en 1890, ha sido protagonista de innumerables relatos protagonizados por personajes que ya forman parte de la historia de México.
By Anna Lagos / Photos Mediateca
This cantina, now unkempt, frequented by people just out of jail or by drunks who have been partying for a week, has been recognized for its century-old trajectory. In fact, as part of the celebrations of the Bicentennial of Independence and the Centennial of the Revolution, it received a plaque signed by then-President Felipe Calderón.
It is not unreasonable to assume that Antonio Rivas Mercado, Dr. Atl, or Diego Rivera visited it. According to Crónicas de Asfalto, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara were also customers here, and Lee Harvey Oswald planned the assassination of John F. Kennedy here. More recently, the sculptor Sebastián was one of the visitors before he became famous. The bartender Roberto Solórzano, second generation of a family that acquired the cantina in the 1970s, tells the chronicler Memo Bautista that Emiliano Zapata himself also stepped foot in the establishment, during his stay in Mexico City in 1914. "My grandfather tells me that from here, from the window table, Zapata ordered the execution of two prisoners who had been brought to him," a customer told Roberto. His grandfather had just died, who assured him that he was Zapata's right-hand man.
If you are one of those seeking the lost authenticity in modern cantinas, here you can immerse yourself in a genuine experience, full of testosterone, intoxicating aromas, and unkempt bathrooms. The patrons are workers from the Historic Center who come to enjoy a drink while savoring some of the snacks courtesy of the establishment.
This emblematic cantina is not only full of history but also of soccer. The Solórzano family are fans of the Atlante team, and during the 1990s, the family patriarch, Don Roberto, and one of his sons attended the training sessions and invited the players to visit their tavern. In fact, there is a small space dedicated to the "iron colts" with several clippings and photographs of that Atlante team that made history.
It is undeniable that La Potosina is one of the few cantinas that has managed to maintain its authenticity over the years, where the scent of alcohol and the variety of Mexican spirits are part of the experience, as well as the snack that accompanies each drink. The $35 peso beer can be enjoyed with pork rinds, a Tlalpeño broth, or a shrimp one.
TL;DR
Food Police Advice
Go during daylight hours without looking too much like a tourist; this cantina is located in a rough area of the Historic Center.
- Location: Jesús María 21, Historic Center of Mexico City, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06020 Mexico City, CDMX
- Contact info: +525555227572
- Service hours: Monday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 12:00 a.m.
- Ideal for: Living an authentic experience of a seedy and malodorous cantina.
- Cuisine: Mexican
- Payment: Cash only.
- Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible
- Parking: No
- Pet-friendly: No
- Suitable for children: No
- Nerby public transport: Metro Zócalo
- Beer price: $35.00
