Bygone Places in Mexico City / Cantina La Vaquita: lived 100 years and was killed by the pandemic
Ubicada en la sede del Partido Comunista Mexicano, era frecuentada por Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera y Tina Modotti.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
The building that housed La Vaquita was constructed in the 18th century, specifically in 1750. The illustrious cantina was founded in 1920 and, as seen in the photo below, shared the building with the headquarters of the Mexican Communist Party and its official newspaper, El Machete. The cantina occupied the ground floor, while the PCM offices were on the upper floors.
Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera
An urban legend about this famous cantina claims that Mario Moreno “Cantinflas” worked there as a waiter, of course before his film career took off. He apparently alternated this job with his early boxing pursuits. Whether it’s true or not is uncertain. What is widely confirmed is that La Vaquita was frequented by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, who reportedly visited all the cantinas in Mexico City. Diego Rivera, along with David Alfaro Siqueiros (who participated in the first attempt on Trotsky’s life), José Clemente Orozco, and Xavier Guerrero (another muralist), created the newspaper El Machete for the Communist Party, and of course, they would descend to the cantina for a few drinks in search of “inspiration.”
Tina Modotti
La Vaquita was also visited by Tina Modotti, an important Italian photographer born in 1896. It is said that her lover, Cuban revolutionary Julio Antonio Mella, was murdered just outside La Vaquita. (Rumor has it that Tina was actually Frida’s lover.)
The deadly pandemic
La Vaquita could not survive the pandemic: like all public establishments, it had to close because it could no longer pay the 50,000 pesos monthly rent. One day, a “for rent” sign appeared in the window.
This cantina, nearly as famous as El Tenampa, reportedly served traditional snacks such as chicharrón, tacos, and other Mexican dishes. Although it closed, its legacy lives on: the building now houses the Escuela Superior de Cine, which has tried to preserve as much as possible of what remained of La Vaquita.
Address: Isabel la Católica and Mesones, Historic Center, Mexico City.
