Carnitas in Mexico City / El Zirahuén, Michoacán-style carnitas
This restaurant has been serving up delicious carnitas, chamorro, and adobo chicken since 1969.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
Zirahuén is a town of 3,000 inhabitants near Lake Pátzcuaro (or what's left of it), in Michoacán. Zirahuén, originally a Purépecha word meaning "the place of the mist", is surrounded by pine and oak trees. There are cabins for rent to relax in that wooded environment. Legend has it that the lake was formed with the tears of a Purépecha princess who fell in love with a Spanish soldier... What did the gachupín do to her that caused so much crying?
How did El Zirahuén come about?
From that area, in 1969, Elías Romero Trejo and Adolfo González Valencia emigrated to Iztapalapa, in CDMX, they designed their restaurant and named it in honor of their homeland: El Zirahuén (although without an accent mark). The place (which enabled a garage during the pandemic) boasts that it only closes its doors three days a year: Holy Thursday and Friday, and December 25th. Currently, El Zirahuén is managed by Adrián González, grandson of Don Adolfo. The Gonzálezes were called "Los Güeros".
The three specialties.
The restaurant is located very close to Río Churubusco, on Calzada Iztapalapa and offers us 3 specialties: the first, and perhaps the most important, is carnitas. They tell us that they are "Michoacán style" and that their preparation follows the same recipe of their Zirahuen founders. A friend said that the best thing was the cueritos (pork rinds). I disagree: I prefer the maciza (lean meat). The second delicacy is the chamorro (pork shank) and, finally, a dish that receives much praise: the adobo chicken. There are antojitos (snacks) such as quesadillas, chicharrón (pork crackling) and guacamole with nopales (cactus). Many users rate El Zirahuén's carnitas as the best in the area. There is takeout service and you can order your carnitas by the kilo.
- What we love and you should try: Michoacán-style carnitas.
- What we don't like so much: it's too hot inside.
- Address: Ermita Iztapalapa 258, Sinatel, Iztapalapa, CDMX.
- Hours and days of operation: Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, from 9:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
- Ideal for: lunch Payment: cash and cards.
- Accessibility: yes. Parking: yes.
- Reservations: no.
- Nearby public transport: Sur 75-A bus stop, RTP, 1-D
- Pet Friendly: yes.
- Suitable to go with children: yes.
- Vegan options: no.