Bygone places / Salón Luz, a cantina that felt more like a family restaurant
The founders gave this establishment the following description: “a restaurant with a cantina vibe.” It boasted an extensive menu of both German and Mexican dishes, making it a place suitable for the whole family.
By Alejandro Pohlenz
Have you ever wondered how many humans were infected with COVID-19 since the beginning of the pandemic in January 2020? It’s estimated that the disease affected about 10 percent of the world’s population (780 million people), though at times it feels like it was many more—almost all my friends caught it, some even twice. As of October 27, 2024, just over 7 million confirmed deaths had been recorded. That number is chilling, considering a country like Denmark (very trendy these days) has roughly 6 million inhabitants.
I begin with the tragedy of the fifth deadliest pandemic in human history (according to Wikipedia) because, as we’ve discussed before, COVID-19 wiped out countless businesses. Authorities forced restaurants, cantinas, clubs, and more to shut down; the government offered no financial support, and they went bankrupt. There was simply no way to cover payroll and expenses.
Why did Salón Luz disappear?
Salón Luz perished in 2020 for that exact reason. I would never have guessed that this cantina got its name from the Electric Company! (Seriously?). It stood across from a beautiful French-style building used by that institution. It was founded by a German entrepreneur in 1914 (curiously, right in the middle of the Mexican Revolution). It lived 106 years (Salón Luz, not the entrepreneur).
At first, the good German offered traditional dishes from his homeland: Frankfurt sausages, rye bread sandwiches, baked potatoes, and steak tartare (which, they say, actually originated in French Polynesia). The “Salón Luz Soup” became famous, reportedly able to “bring the dead back to life.” In the 1980s, more local flavors were added to the menu.
Plenty to choose from
The menu was abundant: milanesas, pork chops, steaks, grilled octopus, zarandeado-style red snapper, spicy shrimp, and the iconic Plato Berlín, with tartare, hamburger, and Frankfurt sausage—a protein bomb!
Sadly, as we said, a microscopic virus wiped out Salón Luz.
Gante 21, corner of Venustiano Carranza, Historic Center, Mexico City.
Permanently closed.
