Wine Bars in CDMX / Provocateur: Quality Wine and Tapas in Roma

By: Youyi Mayora Eng

Photos courtesy of: Provocateur social media

Colonia Roma can never forget its geographical and natural past: a swamp, and from time to time, from earthquake to earthquake, nature reminds us of it. During the Colonial period and the early years of the independent nation, the area frightened the city's inhabitants. Entering its dangerous waters and tangled, abundant trees was like stepping into darkness where nature protected itself from the passage of time and urbanization. It was during the last years of the Porfirio Díaz era that what is now Colonia Roma surrendered to the forces of modernity, and although with pauses over the years, it has since remained an avant-garde neighborhood.

CDMX is many cities at the same time. The metropolis is many metropolises. Different realities, one on top of another, some juxtaposed, each with its emblematic drinks. From the French-influenced Porfirio Díaz era to Vasconcelos nationalism, many worlds and "varietals" have emerged. But in one of those realities that converge in the capital’s postmodernity, wine has become common for the local diner who dares (though a sector still exists that can’t imagine having tacos with a glass of wine).

Provocateur is a project founded by Sophie Avernin, a notable figure in the country’s wine industry. She is also the director of Grandes Viñedos, a website that curates and markets some of the best wine offers available in Mexico, handpicked by Sophie herself. Sophie’s family founded the legendary and now-defunct Champs Elysses restaurant on Reforma. At Provocateur, the focus is on pleasure, different wines, and “good vibes.” It’s a wine bar unconcerned with pretenses. As its founder puts it, “the point is to explore, travel, and mess around with wines.”

Provocateur strives to bring diners a tasting experience with a playful, mischievous sense. There’s no better way to learn than to try; curiosity killed the cat (they say), so dive into the glass, get it dirty, and try another one. After all, it only results in a smile, a memory, and a slight hangover. Provocateur will leave you with the experience tattooed in a quote from Epictetus displayed on one of its windows: “Where there is no wine, there is no love”; remember that.

• Address: Guadalajara 21-A, Colonia Roma
• Contact: 5619917968
• Opening Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday: 12:00 pm - 11:00 pm, Thursday to Saturday: 12:00 pm - 12:00 am, Sunday: 1:00 pm - 8:00 pm, Monday: Closed
• Ideal for: Lunch and dinner
• Type of food: French and Spanish
• Payment: Cash and cards
• Accessibility: Yes
• Parking: No
• Reservations: Available by phone or app
• Pet friendly: Yes
• Suitable for children: Yes
• Vegan options: No