Food Police

Poblano Food in Mexico City / Even Better Than in Puebla

Experience centuries-old Poblano cuisine at Casa Merlos. The owner has spent her life researching and recreating historic recipes, bringing the flavors of the past to life.
Comida poblana CDMX/ Casa Merlos, mejor que en Puebla

By Alejandro Pohlenz

"Here, stomachs are restored and souls are nourished," sings Lucila Molina de Merlos, a fighter and historian. Firstly, because one of her essential motivations is to preserve Mexican culinary traditions, especially those of Puebla. Secondly, because she has dedicated her life to scrutinizing recipes that are 400 years old or more.

 


 

Since she was a child, Lucila says, she has been fascinated by cooking. Very young, due to "economic circumstances," she was forced to sell tamales, and in the 70s, she made casseroles and took them to events. In 1985, already married, she asked her father-in-law to lend a hand. This is how she was able to erect Casa Merlos near Avenida Observatorio: her home, her treasure, her museum, and her reason for being.

 


 

Poblano Food in CDMX

Mrs. Merlos organizes 5 festivals a year, such as the manchamanteles festival (prepared with ancho chile, a fruit garnish, and can include chicken, pork, quail, or duck); but also the casserole festival (by the way, available for events) and the chiles en nogada festival. Here we must stop for a second: Doña Lucila explains that it is a myth that Poblano nuns invented chiles en nogada to offer them to Iturbide, for the victory of the Trigarante Army (as we published in a Food Police article). This dish was created by the Poor Clare nuns in the 16th century and is prepared with shredded meat (a little, says the chef) and goat cheese.

 

 

 

The menu at Casa Merlos, located behind the Tacubaya Observatory, is splendid: there is huitlacoche (with rajas, onion, and cheese), beans that grow in the cornfield called ayocotes (they are very large and taste sweet), grasshoppers, mole poblano, of course, and the unique and fabulous encacahuatado. For dessert, the Torta de Santiago: unique (and gluten-free)!

  • What we love and you must try: encacahuatado.
  • What we don't like as much: café de olla.
  • Food Police insider advise: on Saturdays and Sundays, you have to arrive early because the delicious food runs out.
  • Address: C. Gral. Victoriano Zepeda 80, Observatorio, CDMX.
  • Hours and days of operation: Thursday to Sunday, 1:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.
  • Ideal for: lunch.
  • Payment: cash.
  • Accessibility: yes.
  • Parking: no.
  • Reservations: yes.
  • Phone: 55 5277 4360
  • Nearby public transport: Metro Tacubaya.
  • Pet Friendly: I don't know.
  • Suitable to go with children: yes.
  • Vegan options: yes.

Tags: Guías

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